Getting to Know Your Products
A Game of Hide & Seek
Ever play an intense game of hide and seek as a kid? Do you remember the anxiousness that you felt as you were making your way to your best hiding spot, hearing your opponent count in the distance as they made their way closer to zero? Or maybe the nervousness that you felt when someone got close to the spot that you were hiding in, but didn't notice you? Hiding was always fun! Seeking? Not so much... What if I told you that right now, as an adult, you're unknowingly participating in the ultimate game of hide and seek? Only this time, your health is on the line. There are a number of silent killers lurking in our homes. They hide in plain sight on our countertops, in our medicine cabinets and underneath our sinks, all camaflouged as personal care item. There is a growing body of scientific evidence that links ingredients and contaminants in our products to long-term health concerns like cancer, reproductive problems, endocrine disruption, developmental issues and organ toxicity to name a few. Our goal is to bring awareness to those ingredients and try to help you to identify them so that you can develop your very own standard of clean.
Understanding the FDA's Role in Cosmetic Safety
The Federal Food, Drug & Cosmetic (FD&C) Act defines cosmetics by their intended use, as "articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body...for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance" (FD&C Act, sec. 201(i)). Among the products included in this definition are skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial makeup, cleansing shampoos, permanent waves, hair colors, and deodorants, as well as any substance intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. Under the law, cosmetic products and ingredients, with the exception of color additives, are not subject to FDA approval before they go on the market. In short, the FDA's role in cosmetic safety is virtually non-existent. Even after products hit the market, there's little to no recourse. LEARN MORE
Cosmetic companies may register in the United States through FDA's Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program (VCRP). Because product filings and establishment registrations are not mandatory, voluntary submissions provide the FDA with the best information available about cosmetic products and ingredients, their frequency of use, and businesses engaged in their manufacture and distribution. Neither the law nor FDA regulations require specific tests to demonstrate the safety of individual products or ingredients. The law also does not require cosmetic companies to share their safety information with FDA. Recalls of cosmetics are voluntary actions taken by manufacturers or distributors to remove from the marketplace products that represent a hazard or gross deception, or that are somehow defective. The FDA is not authorized to order recalls of cosmetics. LEARN MORE
Understanding Product Labels
Understanding how to read product labels is critical to identifying the silent killers in your products. Let's start with the basics. If the product is sold on a retail basis to consumers, even it it is labeled "For professional use only" or words to that effect, the ingredients must appear on an information panel, in descending order of predominance. That means that if a products is 30% Oil, 5% Fragrance, 12% Stabilizer, 3% Preservatives and 50% Water, the ingredient list should read as follows: Water, Oil, Stabilizer, Fragrance, Preservative. The listing goes from the most prominent ingredient (Water), to the least prominent ingredient (Preservative). Concerning fragrances and proprietary ingredients, the FDA states the following:
- The components (ingredient) of a fragrance or flavor may also be declared individually by their appropriate label names in order of prominence.
- Some products labeled “unscented” may actually contain a small amount of fragrance ingredients due to manufacturers adding just enough fragrance to cover the odor of other ingredients.
- The ingredient or mixture of ingredients covering undesirable odors without adding a discernable odor to it, may be declared by their individual name(s) or as "fragrance".
- In lieu of the declaration of the name of a confidential ingredient, the phrase " and other ingredients" may be used at the end of the ingredient declaration.
Lastly, please beware of false claims in product labels. It's important to note that the FDA has not defined the term “natural” and has not established a regulatory definition for this term in cosmetic labeling. Because of this, using the term "natural" on the labels of products that aren't natural is not considered false or misleading, and thus legal. Similarly, the FDA also does not have regulations for the term "organic" for cosmetics. The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) regulates the use of the term, making it perfectly fine for product companies to label products as organic, even if they aren't.
Identifying the Silent Killers
Now that you have a better understanding of product labels, It's time to identify the silent killers. How? By literally questioning everything that you see on the label. Start with the basics, who, what, why, when and how. Ask yourself: What is this ingredient? What is it's purpose? What are alternatives for this ingredient? What other names does it go by? What types of products is it found in? What types of health risks are associated with this ingredient? Who is this product marketed to? Who is most at risk from use? Who has banned this ingredient? Why was the ingredient banned? When was the product banned? How's the company's track record when it comes to product formulation? Become best friends with Google. This is a great way to start developing your standard of clean.
Common Toxic Ingredients to Avoid
Parabens
Endocrine Disruption | Skin Cancer | Developmental and Reproductive Toxicity
What You Should Know
Parabens are chemicals used as artificial preservatives in a number of cosmetics and personal care products. Studies have linked parabens to endocrine disruption, malignant melanoma development and harm to reproductive organs.
Parabens Are Commonly Found In:
Shampoos, Conditioners, Facial Cleansers, Facial Scrubs, Body Wash, Body Scrubs, Moisturizers, Sunscreens, Deodorants, Shaving Gels, Toothpastes and Makeup
Spotting Parabens on Product Labels:
- Ethylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Methylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Other ingredients ending in "paraben"
Paraben Regulatory Status:
Some forms of Parabens are banned in Denmark in cosmetics products for children that are 3 and under.
Phthalates
Endocrine Disruption | Cancer | Developmental and Reproductive Toxicity
What You Should Know
Phthalates are chemicals used in solvents and PVC plastics, but more commonly used in synthetic fragrances within cosmetics and personal care products. Studies have linked phthalates to cancer, endocrine disruption, asthma, reproductive damage and allergies.
Phthalates Are Commonly Found In:
Color Cosmetics, Fragranced Lotions, Body Washes, Nail Polish, Treatments, and a number of Hair Care Products
Spotting Phthalates on Product Labels:
- Phthalate
- DEP
- DBP
- DEHP
- Fragrance
Phthalate Regulatory Status:
DBP and DEHP are banned in cosmetics sold in the 27 European Union countries.
Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives
Allergen | Cancer
What You Should Know
Formaldehyde, the same active ingredient found in embalming fluid, is also found in the products we love. It is a known carcinogen that's been linked to leukemia and tumor formation.
Formaldehye-Releasing Preservatives Are Commonly Found In:
Nail Polish, Nail Glue, Eyelash Glue, Hair Gel, Hair-Smoothing Products, Baby Shampoo, Body Soap, Body Wash and Color Cosmetics
Spotting Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives on Product Labels:
- Formaldehyde
- Quaternium-15
- DMDM Hydantoin
- Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea or Polyoxymethylene Urea
- Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate
- 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (bromopol)
- Glyoxal
Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives Regulatory Status:
Both Japan and Sweden have banned the use of formaldehyde in cosmetics and toiletries. The 27 European Union countries and Canada has restricted the types of preservatives used and their concentration levels in person care items.
Polytetrafluoroethylene (subgroup of PFAS)
Endocrine Disruption | Cancer | Developmental and Reproductive Toxicity
What You Should Know
Polytetrafluoroethylene (a subgroup of PFAS known as PTFE or Teflon®) is a non-stick ingredient (yes, the same one in cookware) used in cosmetics due to its ability to provide a smooth, sleek finish. Studies have linked PTFE to cancer, endocrine disruption, reproductive toxicity and delayed puberty.
Polytetrafluoroethylene Is Commonly Found In:
Foundation, Pressed Powder, Loose Powder, Bronzer, Blush, Eye Shadow, Mascara, Shave Gel, Lip Balm, Anti-Aging Lotion
Spotting Polytetrafluoroethylene on Product Labels:
- Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
- Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether
- DEA-C8-18 Perfluoroalkylethyl Phosphate
- Teflon
Polytetrafluoroethylene Regulatory Status:
Within the US, the state of California has banned PFAS in cosmetics and textiles, but sadly, other states haven't followed suit. As for our neighbors up north, the 2016 Toxic Substances Regulation prohibits PFAS substances from being manufactured, used, sold, offered for sale or imported into Canada. The 27 EU member states, will make a final decision about any ban and its conditions within the European Union in 2023.
1,4-Dioxane
Cancer | Organ System Toxicity
What You Should Know
1,4-Dioxane is a contaminant linked to cancer found in products that create suds, such as shampoo and liquid soap. 1,4-dioxane is generated through a process called ethoxylation, in which ethylene oxide, a known breast carcinogen, is added to other chemicals to make them less harsh.
1,4-Dioxane Is Commonly Found In:
Shampoo, Liquid Soap, Bubble Bath, Hair Relaxers
Spotting 1,4-Dioxane on Product Labels:
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- PEG Compounds
- Chemicals that include the clauses "xynol", "ceteareth" and "oleth"
The FDA does not require 1,4-dioxane to be listed as an ingredient on product labels because the chemical is a contaminant produced during manufacturing. Without labeling, there is no way to know for certain whether a product contains 1,4,-dioxane, making it difficult for consumers to avoid it.
1,4-Dioxane Regulatory Status:
1,4-Dioxane has been found unsafe for use in cosmetics and banned in Canada.
Petroleum Jelly
Cancer
What You Should Know
Petroleum Jelly or Petrolatum, used as a moisturizer in personal care products, is perfectly fine when properly refined. Unfortunately, Petrolatum is often times not fully refined in the United States, leaving it susceptible to contamination with polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, a class of toxic chemicals that contain both potential carcinogens and known carcinogen.
Petroleum Jelly Is Commonly Found In:
Lotions and Cosmetics
Spotting Petroleum Jelly on Product Labels:
- Petrolatum
- Petroleum Jelly
- Paraffin Oil
- Mineral Oil
- White Petrolatum (refined and safe for use).
Petroleum Jelly Regulatory Status:
Unlike the United States, the 27 countries within the European Union requires product manufacturers to audit the refining history of Petroleum Jelly and prove that it's non-carcinogenic before use.
Butylated Compounds
Developmental and Reproductive Toxicity | Endocrine Disruption | Organ System Toxicity | Cancer
What You Should Know
Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA) and Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) are preservatives that are used in our foods and a number of personal care products. Studies have linked these two ingredients to several health concerns including endocrine disruption, organ system toxicity, reproductive toxicity and cancer.
Butylated Compounds Are Commonly Found In:
Lip Products, Hair Products, Makeup, Sunscreen, Antiperspirant/Deodorant, Fragrance and Creams
Spotting Butylated Compounds on Product Labels:
- BHA
- BHT
Butylated Compounds Regulatory Status:
The 27 countries within the European Union have banned the use of BHA in fragrances used in cometic formulation. Although the United States has not banned the ingredient, the State of California does require a warning label for any product that contain BHA due to its links to cancer.
As a food preservative, BHA and BHT have been banned in both the United Kingdom and Japan.
Retinol and Retinol Compounds
Developmental and Reproductive Toxicity | Cancer
What You Should Know
Natural Vitamin A is essential to the building blocks of our health. Both natural and synthetic forms of Vitamin A are used in our cosmetics as skin conditioners and anti-acne agents. Two retinol compounds, in particular, retinoic acid and retinyl palmitate, have been linked to increased risks of skin cancer while a third, all-trans retinoic acid, has been identified as a developmental toxicant.
Retinol and Retinol Compounds Are Commonly Found In:
Anti-Aging Creams, Anti-Aging Lotions, Moisturizers and Foundation
Spotting Retinol and Retinol Compounds on Product Labels:
- Retinol
- Vitamin A
- Retinyl Acetate
- Retinyl Palmitate
- All-Trans Retinoic Acid
- Tretinoin
Retinol and Retinol Compounds Regulatory Status:
Tretinoin, an All-Trans Retinoic Acid is banned for use in cosmetics in the 27 European Union countries.
Practical Steps Toward Safer Cosmetics
Resources for Research
Clearya App & Browser Extension
Clearya verifies whether or not your product is toxic by matching the products ingredients to thousands of harmful chemicals identified by scientists and regulators around the world. Once a product is identified as toxic, Clearya suggests safer alternatives sold by the same store. It's that easy to swap out the trash and prioritize your health!
BCPP's Campaign for Safe Cosmetics
The Breast Cancer Prevention Partners Campaign for Safe Cosmetics protects us from toxic beauty by educating the public and advocating for safer laws. As the original trailblazer in the safe cosmetics space, they focus on eliminating dangerous chemicals linked to cancer and other serious health concerns from our products once and for all.
National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences
The NIEHS mission is to discover how the environment affects people in order to promote healthier lives. They are committed to conducting the most rigorous research investigating the links between environmental exposures, human biology, genetics, and common diseases to increase the awareness of the link between the environment and human health.
California Safe Cosmetics Program
California is the only state that requires companies to report harmful ingredients used in cosmetics. The primary purpose of the California Safe Cosmetics Program (CSCP) is to collect information on hazardous and potentially hazardous ingredients in cosmetic products sold in California and to make this information available to the public.
Raw Beauty promises to continue to bring awareness to the growing body of scientific evidence linking the chemicals in our cosmetics and personal care items to long-term health concerns such as cancer, developmental issues and reproductive problems.
